逢春时节话打粑(第1页)
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我有一宜昌朋友,是土家族的。年前,她给我打电话,说要给我寄来一点让我意想不到的“小玩意儿”
她寄来的那“小玩意儿”
是我家人代收的。收到的时候,我还在泉州上班,故此问家人:朋友到底寄来了什么?她说她也不懂得!
隔天我回家正好下雨,脱下雨衣我迫不及待找家人要来这“小玩意儿”
打开一看,原来是一包糖块。但是,那是什么糖块我也不太懂。后来,通过了解,知道这是宜昌出名的“打粑糖”
朋友还告诉我说,这糖冬天做冬天吃,要是到了热天,就会溶化开的。
其实后来我才知道,宜昌的“打粑糖”
就是我们家乡的“麦芽糖”
但宜昌的“打粑糖”
和家乡的“麦芽糖”
相比,在制作工艺上,有它独到的特殊之处。和所有的“麦芽糖”
做法一样“打粑糖”
的主要原料采用麦芽。但今天,人们一般都加入糯米作为辅助原料,或者干脆采用大量的糯米,加入少量的麦芽制作。其方法是:
先将麦子洗净泡水,让它长出白嫩嫩的麦芽,之后收集麦芽磨成水浆,放入锅中熬煮。直到把一大锅的麦芽浆煮成棕红色的糖糕为止。当然,这个过程一般是要加入糯米浆一起熬煮的,纯麦芽糖那可是非常难得的好东西。这一道工序是普通的“麦芽糖”
熬煮方式,而宜昌的“打粑糖”
和普通的“麦芽糖”
有所区别,关键在后面的工序。
“打”
字出头!宜昌的“打粑糖”
着重于“打”
字之上。当大锅里的麦芽浆熬凋冷却之后,那只是普通“麦芽糖”
的结束,而“打粑糖”
却刚刚开始。
将冷却后的凋浆刮起,不断地抽拉,摔打,这和打“糍粑”
是一个理儿,就是让“打粑糖”
增加粘性和弹性。其次,在宜昌人眼里,这“打粑糖”
越白越好。那么,这棕红色的“麦芽糖”
是怎么变成白色的“打粑糖”
呢?原来,这功夫全在抽打之上。棕红色的“麦芽糖”
越是长时间不断抽打,颜色就会越变越白。
?而“打粑糖”
的“白度”
正是检验“打粑糖”
的功夫之所在。故此,人们平时买糖,看顾的自然就是那股“白劲”
一般来说,一斤糯米再加上适量的麦芽,也只熬制出四两糖来。因此“打粑糖”
的成本费极高,但作为传统的“小玩意儿”
价格并不是很理想。所以,由于成本和工序的烦杂性并且具有一定的传统遗传因素,在宜昌,能制作“打粑糖”
的人家已经不多了。而每天挑担出来叫卖的,也都是个把七老八十的老头儿。他们一边敲着锣儿,一边叫喊着:“卖‘打粑糖’啰,卖‘打粑糖’啰”
孩子们一听到锣声和叫卖声,必定向大人讨点小钱,将那小摊儿团团围住,待买到一小块儿,方才边走边吃地离去了。
考究间,我取出一小块“打粑糖”
放入口中。开始时很硬,根本咬不下去。后来,由口中的温度把糖慢慢溶化了,甜甜的蜜汁自然地流溢出来,感觉非常甜美,无需动用你的牙齿,就能享受到甜春的蜜意。嚼动之间,我告诉家人:这是宜昌人家家户户春节必须熬制的甜点,制成块状之后,再拌些芝麻、花生粉末,收于家中的缸里,招待客人。
后来,朋友还说:这“小玩意儿”
是她童年的甜蜜,是温暖的记忆。自然,她更希望这一包小糖,能为我们的新年,带来甜蜜的幸福!谢谢朋友,咱们一起幸福吧!
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